Shoe sewing machines



Dec. 25, 1956 H. R. RUHR 2,775,217

SHOE SEWING MACHINES Filed Sept. 1, 1954 3 Sheets-Sheet l W /25 r fi/4514/54 76 54 0 mm M u laagh w fnventor: h'e/nr/ch JE /Chard ifu/w" Dec.25, 1956 H. R. RUHR SHOE SEWING MACHINES Filed Sept. 1, 1954 3Sheets-Shea t 2 Inventor: He/hr/ch H/chard Tia/w" Dec. 25, 1956 H. R.RUHR 2,775,217

SHOE} SEWING MACHINES Filed Sept. 1, 1954- 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 UnitedStates Patent 2,775,217 SHOE SEWING MACHINES Heinrich Richard Ruhr,Frankfurt am Main, Germany,

Claims. (Cl. 112-46) The present invention relates to machines forsewing welts to stitchdown shoes and more particularly to im- N. J., acorporation provements in devices for enabling a stitchdown welt to besevered quickly and accurately while sewing the sole margin of astitchdown shoe in a manner to cause the final end of welt to butt andmatch the end of welt first attached to the shoe. In some respects thepresent invention is similar to that disclosed in an application forUnited States Letters Patent, Serial No. 418,190, filed March 23, 1954,now Patent No. 2,734,469, granted February 14, 1956, in the name of thepresent inventor in which devices are provided in an inseam sewingmachine for enabling the final end of a Goodyear welt to be butted andmatched with that end first attached to the shoe. In

certain respects the invention is applicable with advantage to machinesfor attaching stitchdown welts to shoes otherwise than by sewing and isuseful in performing auxiliary operations on the welt other thansevering, butting or matching. t p

In the use of the devices disclosed in the prior patent a Goodyear weltshoe inseam sewing machine is provided with a supplemental welt guide inaddition to the main welt guide, so arranged as to be movable along theWelt running to the main welt guide and a knife mounted in thesupplemental welt acts to sever the welt at a position corresponding tothe end of the welt first sewed to the shoe. The position in whichthesupplementalwelt guide in the prior application is moved isdetermined visually by the operator to bring the knife intopredetermined relationship with the first end of the welt.

- It is not possible to attach welts to stitchdown shoes with an inseamsewing machine ordinarily employed in sewing Goodyear welts. For sewingwelts to stitchdown shoes an outsole stitching machine is employed. Inan outsole stitching machine a stitchdown welt is led to the sewingpoint through a main guide formed integrally with the work support at aposition where it is hidden from the view of the operator by theprojecting margin of the stitchdown shoe sole. For this reason it is notpossible to determine the proper position for severing a stitchdown weltvisually with an acceptable degree of accuracy by the opera-tor of anoutsole stitching machine.

It is an object of the present invention to provide an outsole stitchingmachine with devices for enablinga stitchdown welt to be sewn uniformlyand with facility equal to that enjoyed in bringing the ends of aGoodyear welt into accurately butted relationship on the inseam sewingmachine of the prior application without the use of complicatedactuating mechanisms.

In the machine disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 2,388,245,granted November 6, 1945, "on

application of Fred Ashworth, there is disclosed. an outsole stitchingmachine provided with a knife acting automatically just before the endof the seam on a stitchdown shoe is reached to sever the welt from thesupply at a point sufficiently in advance of the end of the welt firstattached to the shoe, so that the final stitches of the machine isintended primarily for fastening the outsole and welt of a Goodyear weltshoe but also his employed 2,775,217 Patented Dec. 25, 1956 seam willconceal the ends of the Welt and provide a smooth inconspicuous joint.While the machine of that patent is highly effective in producing adesirable result, under some circumstances it is preferable to utilize aWelt severing and butting knife in an outside stitching machine forsewing stitchdown shoes, in which the operator of the machine mayexercise greater discretion in matching and butting the ends of weltsevered by the knife while at the same time inserting one or morestitches extending across the severed welt ends.

Accordingly, another object of the invention is to provide a relativelysimple and effective welt severing and butting device for use in astitchdown Welt sewing machine which is capable of performing the sameoperations as those performed in the machine of the Ashworth patentwithout necessitating full automatic operation of the knife.

Other objects are to improve generally the operation of a stitchdownwelt sewing machine by providing features of adjustments and improvedarrangements for mounting the welt severing knife and its actuatingmechanisms. The present invention, accordingly, is illustrated inconnection witha shoe machine having the usual fastening devices, a mainwelt guide mounted in the frame of the machine close to the operatingdevices 'for engagement with a shoe being operated upon, a supplementalwelt guide throughwhich the welt passes to the main welt guide and meanscarried by the supplemental Welt guide for performing an auxiliarysevering operation on the welt, in which machine means is providedmovable with the supplemental welt guide for locating the position ofthe welt running to the main welt guide at which it is desired toperform the auxiliary operation. Where the auxiliary operation comprisesbutting the ends of the welt the supplementary welt guide and a severingknife are mounted on a carrier movable toward and from the main weltguide and the locating means comprises a feeler also mounted on thecarrier. As hereinafter described, the feeler comprises one member of acaliper acting on opposite surfaces along the sole margin of the shoeand in the preferred form the caliper is actuated by convenientlyarranged manual means. 1

These and other features of the invention, as hereinafter described andclaimed will be apparent from the following detailed specification,taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

t Fig. 1 is a detail view in elevation, looking from the right andtoward the front of a lockstitch outsole shoe sewing machine and partsof a shoe operated upon being shown in section, which machine has beenequipped with welt guides, a feeler and severing devices embodying thefeatures of the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a sectional view taken along the line II-II of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a detail view of certain parts in the machine shown in Fig. 1illustrating the manner in which the feeler operates on a shoe sole;

. Fig. 4 is a detail view looking at an angle from the left front of amachine equipped with the feeler and welt severing devices shown in Fig.1;

i Fig. 5 is a plan view of the parts shown in Fig. 1; and

Fig. 6 is a detail view in right side elevation of the machine withparts broken away and portions of a shoe shown in section.

The illustrated machine is generally similar to the lock stitch outsoleshoe sewing machine disclosed in United States Letters Patent No.473,870, granted April 26, 18 92, in the name of French and Meyer, andNo. 1,169,909 granted February 1, 1916, in the name Ashworth. The

far fastening na ro fini h we tot eproiect n ma ginal portions of theupper in the manufacture of a stitchdown shoe. The portions of astitchdown shoe, illustratingtheir. manner. of presentation tothernachine'areindicatedin .Figs. 1 and 6. .Theshoe includes an ,outsolel,the outflanged margin ofa shoeupper. 4, and a beaded stitchdown welt 6.Th eifasteningor stitch forming-deviccs of the machine compriseacurvedhookneedlej, a .c urved awl .10 and ashuttle orlooptaker 12, shownin Fig: 6. wWhen operating upon a, stitchdownshoe it is customary topresent theshoe. in inverted;position, the shoe being engaged with andguidedby a work support 14 which is provided with a main welt guide .15in the form .of an opening shaped to fit the welt and direct itjnadvance of thesewing point. The main welt guide directs the welt intothe crease. between the outflanged and bulging portionsl'of the shoeupper 4 closejto the operat-ingpoint .of lthe fastening devices andthethread,,indicatedaLlG, drawn through allot thejsho epartstoformlockstitches fastening the parts permanently together. v In operatingupon a stitchdown shoe in. the ,manner outlined, the seam fastening the.shoe parts together ordinarily isstartedalong the insideof a shoe shank,a leading end l8 of the. welt being first sewn to theshoe andtheoperation continued about the marginal portions ,ofthe hQe ntil thefirst end 18 .of the -.welt already attached by stitches approaches thesewing pointin the machine. Themachine is then'brought torest,asillustrated ins-Fig. 1, and the welt in advanceof the main weltguide issevered at; a position at-which the length rernainingunattached. to the'shoe is equal to. the distance. betweenthe sewing point and the firstend- 18already attached. The

. operator is no longer forced to depend on his judgment machine isthenlrestarted .and'the seam-completed by inserting stitches overlappingthe ends of welt which are bI'Qllglit lntQi bllltlIlg and matchingengagementL/In this wayea srnooth, inconspicuous .joint is formedbetween the ends. Duetothe position in which. a stitchdown shoe ispresented to an" outsole sewing machine and to the arra gem ent 0fthemain welt guide the. welt advancing through the guideandthe first end18. already attached to the shoe are concealedfromtheview of theoperator stan ding in a position normally assumed byhim; Unless meansare provided for accurately determining theposition ofjthe first end 1 8already,attached to' the shoe, it-is necessary for th'e operator to.remove the shoeatleast partially from thesewing point. for thispur'posegbefore severing thewelt leading fromthe'main weltiguide. 1 Inthe machineofthe AshworthUnited States Patent No. 2,388,245, aweltleading to the main welt guide of'a shoe. outsole sewinggrnachineis. severed; automatically the machine is running at a point determinedfrom enperien ceasthe first stitches ofthe, seam attaching the welt. end:13 approachgthe sewingpoint, no interruption of, the stitching beingrequired. 'Due to slight variations 7 in the position of the leading endofwelt-first attached tothe shoe with respect to the first sitcheswhichare visible to the operator, the actual leading end of the weltbeing concealed, somevariation in appearance and character of the buttedjoint in thewelt of a completed shoe may result. In accordance, withthepresent invention an accurate jointin the weltrunningto the main weltguide tening swan to a stitchdown shoe may be formed without asf eg ra tq lar Skill or;- r r e p i n e in sewing s'titclid'ownshoes and withoutremoving the shoe from .1. w n iati he ma hin To the ends noted above ahorizontally shiftable supplemental welt guide'mo unted' in the machineat a posimore remote fromtheoperating point than the main welt guideandfi ttedwitha welt severing knife and locating-rneans engageable with thefirst end 18 of the welt already attached to the shoe to bring thesupplemental guide to a predetermined relationship with the welt whereit rnay be severed'to the best advantage. In this way the easydetachment as a unit from the machine to facilitate servicing and torender the machine more versatile inthe type of work for which it iscapable of performing. *For convenience in detachably mounting thesupplemental welt guiding, severing and feeler devices the machine ofthey French and Meyer patent, more particularly as,;;disclosed in UnitedStates Letters Patent No. 5 63,471, granted July 7, 1896, to-the sameinventors, has a dovetailed guide portion corresponding to thatindicated at 20 in Fig. l of'the present drawings, mounted on a rigidportionof the machine frame. .In the machineof the invention 'thedovetail guide portion 20 hassurroundingita' block22 provided with asimilarly shaped slot and a vertical spindle 24 carrying .at its upperend a mounting for-thesupplemental welt guide and associated devices.When the block is applied to the dovetail .portion 20 awearplateZfiwithin its slot isclamped against the dovetail guide portion byaset-screw v28 in the block to secure the block firmly in ,operatingposition in the machine. I I l Ihesupplementalwelt guideis in theform-of. a slotted block 30, the slot of which provides a passageway forthe welt 6. As illustrated, the welt is of the storm type with a .beadentering a groove along therlower surface-of the, slot inrthe guideblock 30. To maintain a yielding pressureon the welt as it passesthrough the-supplemental guide slotapairofleaf springs 3:2 act inadvanced the siot of the guide toengage the under surfaces of the mainbody on the welt and the projection of the bead, respectively, The leafsprings are secured to a cover 33 by clamp;screws.34 passing through thesprings and into the cover, the cover being secured to the guide blockby screws 35 I For limiting the .upward movement of the sprnigs theeover 33 has a flange extending across the path of the Welt 6 in advanceof the guide and a pin 36 secured in upstanding. ears in the block 30limits the upward movement of the belt beyondthe slot in the block 30.

The welt severing knife, indicated at 38, is mounted for slidingmovement toward and from the welt in the supplemental welt guide block30 and is formed with beveled sides to provide a dovetail groove 40 (seeFig. 2) in the left hand inclined face of the block 30. For actuatingthe welt severing knife 38 its lower end is perforated to receive ascrew 42 passing into threaded engag'ement with a clamp 44 having acentralpassage surrounding a sheath 46 of a Bowden wire 48, operated ina manner to be described. The Bowden wire 48 passes entirely through theclamp 44 and is attached at its uppermost end to the supplemental guideblock 30. On the Bowden wire between the clamp 44 and the guide block 30is disposed a compression spring 50 for retain- 7 a clamping bolt 54.The carrier bar 52 is formed with ing the knife 38 in its lowermostinactive position. When the knife is actuated upwardly it severs thewelt 6 with a'bevel cut against an edge 39 of the guide slot in the 15inithevivnfistyratgdl maghine for Sewing! Otherwise I block30, which actsas a cutting plate for the knife.

For shifting the supplemental welt guide block 30 horizontally it issecured to a carrier in the form of a bar 52 movable on the mountingprovided by the spindle 24, the guide block 30 having a bore fitting theupper end of the carrier bar 52 and being secured thereto by suitablebends and is pivotally mounted on a carrier supporting arm 56 rotatablymounted on the spindle 2.4

7 (see Fig. 5), the vertical position of the carrier supporting arm onthe spindle being determined by a check nut 58 threaded on the centralportion of the spindle below the carriersupporting arm. The axis aboutwhich the carrier bat-"pivots on the carrier supporting arm 56 isoperation progresses.

parallel to the axis of the spindle 24 so that when thesupporting armrotates on the spindle the carrier rod 52. shifts in the direction ofthe welt running to the main welt guide in the work support 14, the welt6 providing sufficient rigidity for guiding the shifting movementof theguide block 30 of the supplemental guide as it moves toward and from themain welt guide.

The pivotal mounting for the carrier rod 52 is formed by a shortvertical stud 60 which passes through a split portion of the rod at itslower end and to which the rod is clamped by a screw 62 extendingthrough its split portion. The ends of the stud 60 are indented andengage a pair of balls 64 entering similar indentations within a recessof. the carrier supportingarm 56.and in l the lower end of a screw 66,respectively, the. screw being threaded in a flange portion of thecarrier supporting arm. A check nut 68 engages the screw 66 and acts tosecure it in proper relationship to the upper ball 64.

.As the carrier supporting arm swings on the spindle 24 the carrier barmoves the supplemental welt guide along the welt 6 toward andfrom themain welt guide and the stud 60 rotates on the balls 64 to enable the.shifting movement of the supplemental guide to follow the welt 6.

which passes a horizontal shoulder bolt 74 clampedin position on the rodby a nut 76 (see Figs. 4 and Rotatably mounted on an enlarged portion ofthe bolt 74 area pairof blocks 78 and 80 provided with horizontalpassages within which are located the welt end feeler in thejform of anL-shaped shaft 82 and sole engaging caliper member in the form of anL-shapedrod 84, the shaft and rod being secured to the blocks 78 and 80by draw bolts 86 passing through the respective blocks. The arrangementof the welt severing knife 38 within the guideway of the supplementalguide block 30 causes the knife to sever the welt with a bevel cut ofapproximately 45 fore is formed with a welt end engaging surface 88disposed at that angle to the horizontal. The left end of The left endof the shaft 82 therethe rod 84 has rotatably mounted upon it a soleengaging roll 90 formed with a barrel-shaped outer surface to permit itto ride smoothly over any irregularity present on the sole 2.

. During normal sewing operations the caliper comprising the feelershaft 82 and the sole engaging rod 84 is inoperative and causes nointerference with the movements of the shoe during sewing operations,the welt 6 in the supplemental welt guide holding it in a position outof the path of movement of the shoe as the sewing While sewing about theforepart and heel portions of a shoe the projection formed by theoutflanged upper solemember and welt already attached thereto are clearof the space between the active ends of the shaft 82 and the rod 84.This is because the convex curvatures of the marginal edges on the shoeparts bring them out of the range of the feeler caliper.

It'is onlywhile sewing about the inside shank of the shoe that themarginal portions of the shoe project into the space between the roll 90and the feeler end ofthe shaft 82 as a result of the concave curvaturesalong these portions of the shoe edges. To prevent engagement of eithercaliper member with the shoe when the and sole engaging rod are broughttogether against the shoe parts, as shown in Fig. 3 and the carriersupporting farm 56 isswung about the spindle 24 to shift the supple- 8mental welt guide and caliper members toward and from the main weltguide in the work support until the welt end engaging surface 88 on thefeeler is brought into definite contact with the first end of welt 18attached to the shoe. Proper stopping position of the machine may beascertained roughly by the approach of the stitches first inserted whichare readily visible to the operator of the machine. Engagement of thefeeler surface 88 with the welt end 18 then provides means for accuratelocation of the supplemental welt guide within which is slidably mountedthe knife 38. After being properly located the knife 38 is actuated toform a bevel cut end, butting and matching exactly the first end 18.After restarting the machine stitches are then continued across thebutted ends of the welt on the shoe completed in the usual manner.

For actuating the caliper to open and close against the projectingmarginal portions of a shoe, for shifting the carrier to move thesupplemental welt guide and knife along the Welt running to the mainwelt guide and for actuating the knife to sever the welt a singlemanually operated member is provided. Thus, it is possible for theoperator of the machine to support a shoe with one hand and to locatethe end 18 of welt, already attached to a shoe, shifting the knifecarrier to the proper location to butt and match the bevel at the end 18of welt while grasping the single manually operated member with theother hand. The operation of severing the welt is executed withoutshifting the operators grasp on the shoe or readjusting his grip on theoperated member.

The single manually operated member for actuating the feeler, calipermembers and knife is pivotally mounted for movement upon the carriersupporting arm 56 for relative movement both horizontally along the weltand vertically toward and from the marginal portions of the shoe. Foractuating the caliper to engage the projecting marginal portions of theshoe with an opening and closing motion the manually operated member isrotated in a counterclockwise direction about an axis passing throughitself so as to be accomplished readily by rotation of the operatorswrist.

The pivotal mounting for the manually operated member on the carriersupporting arm 56 is similar to that provided for the carrier rod 52 onthe supporting arm 56 and consists of a pair of balls 92 mounted in anindentation of a flange on the carrier supporting arm and in the lowerend of a screw 94, respectively, the screw 94 passing through a flangeon the supporting arm 56 directly above the one which receives the lowerball 92. The balls 92 also enter indentations in a block 96 on which issupported a handle arm 98 projecting forwardly and toward the right ofthe machine. The forward end of the arm 98 has a horizontal bearingthrough which passes loosely a handle shaft 100. At the forward end ofthe handle shaft is mounted the manually operated member in the form ofa grip shaped handle knob 102 (see Fig. 1), the shaft being perforatedto receive a pin 104 passing through it and the knob 102.

To shift the supplemental welt guide with the knife and feeler calipertoward and from the main welt guide in the work support 14 the manuallyoperated knob 102 is moved horizontally in the direction correspondingto that in which the supplemental welt guide and caliper are to beshifted. To prevent overrunning of the feeler surface 88 on the shaft 82past the first end 18 of the welt on a shoe the block 96 forms a pivotalconnection between the arm 98 and the carrier supporting arm 56 and isyieldingly connected to the supporting arm through a torsion spring 106surrounding the upper ball 92, with one end engaged with the block 96and the other with the supporting arm 56. The spring 106 is so stressedthat as the knob102 is moved toward the right it will yield as soon asthe surface 88 engages the end 18 of welt first attached to a shoe. Tolimit the pivotal movement of the handle knob toward the leftwithvrespect t0 the carrier supporting armi the block 96 engages anabutjment 1081(see, Fig.5 onthe (arm.

rfopenin'g and 'closing'the caliper members on the surfaces along'themarginal projecting sole and other porjtionsYof the shoe parts thehandle knob 102 is rotated jwith 'the shaft 104 ,the axisof'which passesthrough the knob its'elfl helical groove 110 'intol which fits a roll112 rotatably The shaft 100 is'formed' with a right hand mounted on'areduced end of'a' shoulder screw 114, the enlarged portion of which'isthreaded into a boss on thehandle arm 98. Beyond the'ibearing for theshaft 100. in the, arm98j is an enlarged opening within which is locateda compressionspring'116 surrounding the shaft 100. The'spring' 116 iscompressed between the inner end of the enlargement in'the opening and ablock 118 loosely surrounding the shaft lllllythe block 118 having a;section of reduced width projecting downwardly through ayslotj99 along'the'lower surface of the handle arm 98. To'ret'ain :the';blockl18'inposition on the shaft 100 against thef compression offthe spring116' the inner end fof'theshaft'has "secured to ,it a collar 120.Connected withfthe portion of reduced width on the block 118 is theTforward end of aBowden'wire"122 passing-through a jsheath11 24 securedby'a clamp,screw"126 in a lug on the handle arm 9.8. The other end'ofthe sheath 124 has connected to' it a sleeve 127 through which also theBowden'wire 122 pass'es'iand continues through enlarged heads one pair"of pins 128 rotatably mounted in the caliper blocksj78 and 80. Thecaliper-blocks are norrn ally separated bya spring130 compressed betweenthe heads on the pins 1 28 and the caliper members are closed on fth eshoe'parts yieldingly against the action on a spring 3132 surroundingthe Bowden wire 12'2 between the lowerrnost p'in"1 28' and the sleeve127 'tolimit'the pressure of fthefcaliper members on the'shoe parts. Thearrange- *ment is such that'when'the knob'102 is rotated the calipermembers open 'or close on'the marginal portions of a shoe so that asthecarrierbar '52 is shifted toward-the right the surface'88 on the shaft'82'will be brought against the end 18 of the welt.

To connect the manually operated knob 102 for operation of the weltsevering knife 38 the handle arm 98 is mounted for vertical pivotalmovement on the block 96. For thispurpose the block 96 has threaded intoit a shoulder screw 134 passing loosely through the rearward .portion ofthe handle arm. The handle arm is held raised normally during'sewingoperations by a spring 136 stretched between a pin 137 on the handle armand a screw 138 threaded into a lug on the supporting arm 56. The spring136 holds the handle arm in raised position determined by the engagementof a pin 140 (see Fig. 4)

on the handle arm with a vertical edge surface on the block 96. v

l The connections between the handle arm and the welt severing knife 38include the Bowden wire 48 secured in a 'passage intersecting thethreaded portion of the lug on the supporting arm 56 into which thescrew138 passes,

the screw 138 acting to clamp the Bowden wire 48 in place. The Bowdenwire 48 also passes through a square head on a'pin 142 to which is fixedthe sheath 46 for the wire 48. The pin 142 is rotatably mounted in thehandle arm 98 and the sheath 46 extends into the clamp 44 on the weltsevering knife as hereinbefore described.

Downward movement of the handle knob acts through the connections thusdescribed to slide the sheath 46 along thejBowden wire 48 and to raisethe knife 38 into enfforwardmovement. The sewing operation being startedit is continued entirely about the projecting marginal portions of ashoe until the stitches firstinserted become visible. After stopping themachine the manually operated knob is moved in the proper manner tocaliper' th'e leading end 18 of'thewelt first attached to the shoe andto sever the welt in the position thus determined. The parts areproperly adjusted to cause the'severed end of the welt attached to theshoe to match exactly with andto butt against the first end 18 of thewelt when the sewing operation is resumed so that after the stitcheshave been carried across the butted ends a neat and well concealed jointwill be completed.

' The machine equipped with the supplemental welt guide, caliper andsevering knife may conveniently be operated with relatively littleexperience if the machine is'brought to rest while operating the handleknob-102.

To sever a stitchdown welt the operation of the knob also maybe'eifected, without deviating from the scope of the invention,immediately prior to the completionof a sewing operation withoutstopping the sewing operations, it being possible for an experiencedoperator to control the feeler and severing devices while the machine isrunning. Also, the actuation of the knife may be performed in a mannersimilar to that disclosed in the Ashworth patent automaticallywheneverthe feeler surface 88 is engaged by the end of a welt attached to ashoe. Under these conditions the movements of the handle knob102 willshift the carrier for the caliper to the right to bring the feelersurface against the welt end of a shoe and as the shoe is fed the feelermember will be moved toward the left with a shoe while the knife isbeing actuated.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and aparticular embodiment having been described, what is claimed is:

1. A shoe machine having a main frame, fastening devices in .the frame,a main welt guide mounted in the frame close to the point of operationofthe fastening devices for engagement with a shoe being operated uponby the fastening devices, a supplemental welt guide located along thepath of the welt leading to the main welt guide more remote from theoperating point than the main welt guide, knife means carried by thesupplemental welt guide for performing a severing operation on the weltbefore it enters the main welt guide and a carrier on which thesupplemental Welt guide is secured mounted on the main frame forshifting movement toward and from the main welt guide, in combinationwith feeler means mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier andengageable with the first end of welt already attached to a shoe forlocating the position along the welt running to the main welt guide atwhich the severing operation is performed.

2. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices inthe frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame close to the point ofoperation of the stitchforming devices for engagement with a shoe beingoperated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontally shiftablesupplemental welt guide located along the path of the welt leading tothe main welt guide more remote from the operating point than the mainwelt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental welt guide for severingthe welt passing therethrough before it enters the main welt guide and acarrier on which the supplemental welt guide is secured mounted on themain frame for horizontal shifting movement toward and from the mainwelt guide, in combination with a feeler mounted on the supplementalwelt guide carrier and movable with the carrier along a shoe beingoperated upon to bring the knife into predetermined relationship withthe end of the welt already atttached to the shoe.

3. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch vforming devices inthe frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with-ashoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontallyshiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the weltleading to the main Welt guide, aknife carried .bythe supplemental weltguide for severing the welt passingtherethrough before it enters themain welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide i'ssecured mounted on the mainframe for horizontal shifting movement towardand from the main welt guide, in combination with a caliper acting onoposite surfaces along the sole marign of a shoe and comprising a feelermounted on the supplemental welt guide carrierto locate the position amee'ndof the welt alreadyattached to the shoe, at which the knife may beactuated to form a matching end on the welt.

4. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices inthe frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with ashoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontallyshiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the weltleading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental weltguide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters themain welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide issecured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movementtoward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a caliperacting on opposite surfaces along the sole marign of a shoe andcomprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier tolocate the position of the end of the welt already attached to the shoeat which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt,and means for opening and closing the caliper to bring it into operativerelationship to the margin of a shoe.

5. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices inthe frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with ashoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontallyshiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the weltleading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental weltguide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters themain welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide issecured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movementtoward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a caliperacting on opposite surfaces along the sole margin of a shoe andcomprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier tolocate the position of the end of the welt already attached to the shoeat which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt,and a single manually operated member for opening and closing thecaliper on the sole margin of the shoe and for shifting the carrier tomove the supplemental welt guide and knife along the welt running to themain welt guide.

6. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices inthe frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with ashoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontallyshiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the weltleading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental weltguide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters themain welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide issecured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movementtoward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a caliperacting on opposite surfaces along the sole margin of a shoe andcomprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier tolocate the position of the end of the Welt already attached to the shoeat which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt, asingle manually operated member for opening and closing the caliper onthe sole margin of the shoe and for shifting the carrier to move thesupplemental welt guide and knife along the welt running to the mainwelt guide, and connections between the manually operated member and theknife for actuating it to sever the welt.

7. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices inthe frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with ashoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontallyshiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the weltleading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental weltguide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters themain welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide issecured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movementtoward and from. the main welt guide, in combination with a caliperacting on opposite surfaces along the sole margin of a shoe andcomprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier tolocate the position of the end of the welt already attached to the shoeat which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt, ashaft on the carrier, and a manually operated knob mounted on the shaftwith the axis of the shaft passing through the knob for opening andclosing the caliper on the sole margin of the shoe through rotation ofthe knob about the shaft axis.

8. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices inthe frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with ashoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontalshiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the weltleading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental weltguide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters themain welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide issecured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movementtoward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a caliperacting on opposite surfaces along the sole margin of a shoe andcomprising a feeler mounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier tolocate the position of the end of the welt already attached to the shoeat which the knife may be actuated to form a matching end on the welt, ashaft on the carrier, a manually operated knob mounted on the shaft withthe axis of the shaft passing through the knob for opening and closingthe caliper on the sole margin of the shoe through rotation of the knobabout the shaft axis, and yielding connections between the shaft and thecaliper to limit the pressure of the feeler on the shoe parts.

9. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices inthe frame, a main Welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with ashoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontallyshiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the weltleading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental Weltguide for severing the welt passing therethrough before it enters themain welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide issecured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movementtoward and from the main welt guide, in combination with a feelermounted on the supplemental welt guide carrier and movable with thecarrier along a shoe being operated upon to engage the end of the weltalready attached to the shoe and to bring the knife into predeterminedrelationship with said welt end, a handle knob mounted on the carrierand movable therewith to shift the carrier in the direction of movementof the knob, and a yielding connection between the knob and the carrierto prevent the feeler from overrunning the end of the welt on the shoe.

10. A shoe sewing machine having a main frame, stitch forming devices inthe frame, a main welt guide mounted in the frame for engagement with ashoe being operated upon by the stitch forming devices, a horizontallyshiftable supplemental welt guide located along the path of the weltleading to the main welt guide, a knife carried by the supplemental weltguide for severing the welt pass ing therethrough before it enters themain welt guide and a carrier on which the supplemental welt guide issecured mounted on the main frame for horizontal shifting movementtoward and from the main welt guide, in

. References Cited in the file of this-patent 1 UNITED" STATES PATENTSPren'zel' JUnefS, 19 15 YAshworth et a1. Sept. 2, 1930 Oliver Mar. 20,:1934 Ashworth Dec. 3,"1 935 Ashwo'rth Apr. 6,1948

